Does Not Compute! Oh, Yes It Does: Using Computational Photography for your Landscape Images

My love of photography started when I was twelve years old. What appealed to me most then, and still today, is how I can use the camera to “see” differently. My choice of shutter speed, aperture, focal length, filters and various compositional strategies can allow a mundane scene to turn into something wonderful. The pure basics have not changed over the years. We still have choices to make regarding exposure settings and composition. But we aren’t holding cameras anymore. We are holding computers with lenses attached, and that computational power allows us to see the world in new and exciting ways.

OM SYSTEM is a pioneer in computational photography and no camera is more advanced in this area than the OM-1. Through the powerful technology of the True Pic X processor you can create images that were just not possible a few short years ago. The OM-1 has a number of computational features – live composite, high resolution modes, Live ND and several more. Even though each would be used under different circumstances, and provide quite different results, they all have one thing in common. Once engaged, the camera takes a number of images and then processes them to create a single shot with that specific feature applied. OM SYSTEM/Olympus cameras have had this ability for a number of years. The OM-1 expands the possibilities and dramatically increases the processing speed so that you get on with your next shot.

Live Composite Mode

It makes sense to start with the feature that has been around for a while. Live Composite Mode is designed to be used under dimmer lighting conditions, for example at dusk or at night, and allows the photographer to capture very long exposures without blowing out any of the highlights. In essence, a live composite image is one made of several separate photographs that are combined in the camera over a period of time. A live composite can last from a few seconds, all the way to six hours! Regardless of how long the shutter is open you start by setting a base exposure, let’s say 5 seconds. Once you press the shutter release the camera creates a ‘dark frame’ that is used for noise reduction at the end of the process. After the dark frame is created, you are instructed to start the actual live composite, by pressing the shutter release again. The sensor records the first 5-second exposure and you will see it displayed on the LCD. The shutter remains open and subsequent 5-second exposures only record areas of the image that change brightness. Although this feature has many different applications, I have used it mainly for capturing star trails. As the stars move through the sky their new position is recorded by the sensor, but other lights, such as a street light won’t affect that overall exposure of the scene because they are not changing position or intensity. Live composite is perfect for any situation where you want to capture a change in light within a darker scene. Some possible applications include photographing fireworks, lightning, cloud movement at sunset, or traffic trails.

To access Live Composite turn the mode dial to “B” and use the rear dial to select “LiveComp”. Then press the Menu button in order to choose your base exposure, from 1/2s to 60s. You will also notice that the LCD monitor dims considerably once you have entered Bulb mode. The brightness can be adjusted by pressing the menu button again and selecting the “Bulb/Time Monitor” option. This is also where you can set the upper limit of your live composite shooting, with options from a short as 4 minutes to as long as 6 hours.

Focus Stacking

Each of the computational features in the OM SYSTEM cameras has made an impact on how I photograph my landscapes. But none has made as big a difference as focus bracketing and stacking. This is definitely the feature that I use the most. Focus stacking is usually thought of as a technique reserved for macro shooting, and it is certainly perfect for that genre. But, it is now a technique that I regularly use for landscape shooting. In most of my landscape shots I like to have that classic foreground, midground and background. Now I can accentuate that foreground. I love the fact that even tiny objects can become a dominant element in a photo. This makes me far more observant of my surroundings as I look for new and interesting ways to photograph a scene.

In many cases I place the front lens element within a few inches of the foreground subject and, with the incredible image stabilization of the OM-1, I often forego the tripod. It may require a bit of experimentation to figure out how many shots are needed in order to get maximum clarity throughout the scene. Focus stacking is limited to a maximum of 15 shots, but I have found that setting eight to ten shots usually works quite well. I leave the focus differential at 3 and usually shoot with an aperture of f/4 or f/5.6. I set my focus point on the closest part of my subject. The OM-1 has 1053 focus points with full coverage of the frame which gives more precise control over focusing. Once the shutter release is pressed the camera will capture the set number of shots, but keep in mind that the 2nd and 3rd shots of the sequence actually focus in front of where you set your focus. The remaining shots focus deeper into the frame. If you are shooting in RAW, the individual shots will be recorded in RAW, but the stacked image will be a jpeg. Even though I process and stack the RAW images in third party software, I find the in-camera stacked jpeg very useful to see whether I nailed focus throughout the final image.

As with the other computational features, focus stacking can be programmed into one of the customizable buttons and settings can be changed quickly by holding down that button and turning one of the control dials.

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